The dance of the spirits
Monday, March 30th, 2009 March 30th, 2009 Aanand Pandey|
I visited Mehendipur last week. Located around 100 km north of Jaipur, Mehendipur is a small kasba off the Agra-Jaipur highway. You must thank your stars if you haven’t heard of this place. Mehendipur houses a shrine that draws millions of people every year who come there to exorcise evil spirits. A vast number of devotees alight at the nearest bus stop (about four kilometres away from the town), fall prostrate on the ground and scrape through the dust and the tar of the lone street all the way to the shrine. Some walk barefoot under the high desert Sun for days to make it to the shrine. To atone for my share of sins, I took a non-AC taxi from Jaipur. Why was I found last week at such a place, that too on a holiday? I don’t believe in evil spirits. But I don’t believe in true love either, though people say it exists. And I won’t mind checking the existence of these or other paranormal activities — which is why I landed up in the mofussil town last week. On the day of my arrival, my co-traveller who is also an old friend told me that the evening Aarti that day is the occassion when the Mahant of the temple will exorcise spirits off the troubled subjects. That night, my friend and I left our inn half an hour before the scheduled time and trudged our way to the shrine. Weaving through a maze of dark, narrow alleys, we reached a large field that most likely functioned as a school playground by day. I noticed hundreds of people — men, women and children — who stood almost motionless forming a crowd that stretched accross the playground. Making our way through the sea of people, we reached a courtyard that had a small temple nestled right in the center of the enclosed space. A raised cement platform surrounded the main temple, and an iron fence lined the main courtyard. Between the raised platform and the iron fence, sat scores of people who were said to be possessed by the evil spirits. My friend had it all worked out. Minutes before the Aarti, he gestured to me that I must jump over the iron fence and join the “possessed” devotees on the other side, so I could “get a closer feel” of the rituals. Then, ignoring my mild protests, my childhood friend tossed me over into the welcoming bed of hands raised in the air on the other side of the spiked stucture. Once inside, I managed to have a look at people around me. The entire “possessed” group of devotess consisted solely of women — mostly young girls, except perhaps for two or three women who would be in their early or mid-thirties. To my dismay, the only man I managed to spot in the assembly lay writhing on the floor right next to my left foot. The unfortunate soul had his legs tied together with an iron chain, I noticed later. I looked back and thought my friend flashed an evil smirk in my direction. Shortly after, a diminutive man emerged from the temple, held up a huge brass gong in the air and started pounding it with a hammer. One by one, some of the women seated around me rose to their feet and began swaying their heads to the sounds of the chanting and the gong. All this while, I stayed crouched on the ground. Soon enough, the chanting, the gonging and the head-swaying reached a spine-chilling crescendo. Meanwhile, a strange thing had happened. I was not afraid anymore. I had begun to notice a number of similarities among the head-swayers around me. To begun with, not one of them was moving in a reckless fashion – each one was careful not to hurt the one moving next to her. Not a single girl had looked ungainly all this while, even when carrying out one of the most unsightly of acts known to mankind, well, at least to me. Each of the girls had tied her dupatta around her waist like she knew what the evening had in store for her. And all of them had long, well-oiled hair that had been left untied — it lent a haunting aura to the whole sight. But the most striking similarity of all had to be their physical attributes. All of them — young and old — were pretty. Not above-average pretty, but head-turning pretty (pun unintended). They had sharp features, high cheekbones, well-set eyes, shapely figures – every single woman was attractive in her own way (this factor is not lost on the town folk. Local lore has it that evil spirits prefer the company of pretty girls). Was I reading too much into this? Is there something more to this phenomenon? I have my theories and I am sure believers have their theories too. One of mine goes thus: hell is life of a girl growing up in a small Indian town. But we will spare everyone the profundity and try and find some peace in the thought that, fortunately for some small town girls, there are places like Mehendipur where they can let go of their demons, once in a blue, full moon. As for me, I now want to believe in ghosts. Still not sure about true love, though. |


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